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Sharpness - Bokeh
Foto tutorial (English)
Foto tutorial (Espaņol)
Equipment recommendations US-ES
Flaat for Canon
Flaat for Nikon
Flaat for the BMC
Flaat for NEX-5N
Old Picture Style Tests
550D video lineskip
APS-C vs Full Frame
Badly assembled lenses and image quality
Lens mount compatibility chart
ISO on different cameras
High ISO on the 5D3
DIY: DR test chart
RGBWK Bayer sensors
Notes on DoF-FoV
Notes on crop-DoF-FoV
Custom Cropmarks for Magic Lantern on the Canon 550D
How many megapixels do I want?
How many megapixels can I see?
Quick Monitor Calibration Chart
Light that looks white to you in fact usually is not: tungsten lights are yellowish, fluorescent lights are greenish, LEDs can be bluish or yellowish... With the white balance setting you tell your camera what's the color of the dominant light, so that it considers that as pure white and rebalances colors.
If you shoot RAW, you can leave that decision for the developing process: although there has to be a white balance setting used at the time of taking the shot, you can override it with any other value when developing the image (you can even use a manual color picker, telling the program, for example, "this wall here is white").
An image taken in artificial lighting, with white balance set to daylight, and manual.
Here it's not a huge problem, but if there's people in the image, skin tones have to be right (1- 2-3)
As a general rule, the onboard flash from the camera should only be used as fill (for example to soften shadows in faces of people in a sunny day) or as a last resort (if the alternative is just not taking the picture). Used as the main light, it looks too flat, and will rarely generate interesting images.
A slave or wireless flash on a side, or a flash bounced on the ceiling or on a wall, provide much nicer results.