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Some Technical Issues

White Balance

Light that looks white to you in fact usually is not: tungsten lights are yellowish, fluorescent lights are greenish, LEDs can be bluish or yellowish... With the white balance setting you tell your camera what's the color of the dominant light, so that it considers that as pure white and rebalances colors.
If you shoot RAW, you can leave that decision for the developing process: although there has to be a white balance setting used at the time of taking the shot, you can override it with any other value when developing the image (you can even use a manual color picker, telling the program, for example, "this wall here is white").




An image taken in artificial lighting, with white balance set to daylight, and manual.
Here it's not a huge problem, but if there's people in the image, skin tones have to be right (1- 2-3)
  






Flash

As a general rule, the onboard flash from the camera should only be used as fill (for example to soften shadows in faces of people in a sunny day) or as a last resort (if the alternative is just not taking the picture). Used as the main light, it looks too flat, and will rarely generate interesting images.

A slave or wireless flash on a side, or a flash bounced on the ceiling or on a wall, provide much nicer results.





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